9-11 Memorial Garden and Trail

The Monsters are due on Maple Street. Tweet Map

From 9-11 Memorial Garden

A close look at the calendar reveals that today is the 10 year anniversary of one of the marquee moments in living American’s lives. The very date of September 11 invokes an imaged of terror and death, and marks a sea change in the way we see ourselves as a people and as a nation. I feel compelled to take notice of the event as I am a red blooded American, but I shall do so in typical Baboon fashion, by telling the story of a geographical location within driving distance of Atlanta (about 1½ hours away) created by a U.S. Citizen, Georgia resident and folk artist by the name of Bob Hart near Athens. The place is called the 9-11 Memorial Garden and Trail, which is located on his property and is open to the public at 320 Morton Farm Lane in Athens GA.


Mr. Hart, a retiree from the University of Georgia, was so moved by the moments of that fateful day that he felt compelled to create something and made a personal monument to the tragedy and to the lessons which, hopefully, a grieving nation learned that September morning. It would be categorized as a folk art piece which I believe is fitting for a moment that struck a chord with every echelon of person in American Society. It is a simple trail about 300 yards in length walking through a young forest. As you enter, there is a visitor’s sign-in book and a copy of the book, Portraits: 9/11/01: The Collected "Portraits of Grief" from The New York Times, which gives a short bio of every person killed in the attacks. The construct that holds the books is adorned with two quotes from Holocaust survivor Elie Wiesel. The first reads, “Memory may be our most powerful weapon against fanaticism” and the second adds, “To live through catastrophe is bad, to forget it worse.” These sentiments are well chosen and well said to get your mind in the mood for a reflection of the events of 9-11.


The artwork itself is simple and mostly abstract, with items representing special numbers or places related to the day. As abstract art is often difficult to understand, the artist has placed several markers explaining his intentions. And they are rather straightforward, saying things like the red beam on the Pentagon Memorial represents the side that was struck by the aircraft and which was still on fire at the time of the monuments creation. There are four such special memorials along the trail: the Pentagon, the World Trade Center, Flight 93, and one to the noble concepts of Faith, Hope, and Love (this last piece has contributions from Athens artist Mary Padgelek). There are also a few other pieces of art placed throughout the trail, the most notable being an iron sculpture near the front called Migrations by local artist Harold Rittenberr. There are also several benches to sit upon for rest and reflection.


The most thought-provoking works are the signposts along the trail. They were simple wooden posts that resembled directional signs. There were 99 of them, a number chosen by multiplying the numbers in the date of the tragedy. On each sign were the hand painted names of every human being who died as a direct result of those terrorist attacks. These brought back vividly the human cost of the 10 year old event. They were people out there, like you and me, who were killed in this senseless act, and the power of a person’s name can bridge the gap between abstract and reality. Each is a person who had a job and a family and hopes and dreams. Atop each pole is a small hand painting, often of the U.S. Flag, but at other times about other concepts that should also not be forgotten like Love, Liberty, and Justice.


It would be difficult to visit such a place and not reflect on the attack on the United States, which brings me to the thoughts that swirled in my head at the memorial trail on that infamous moment and the 10 years hence. I remember the events as we all do. The feelings we all have are fairly universal; anger, sadness, fear, disgust, are all common. I was struck deeply by the days that followed. For a short while, we acted as one America in love with the country, what it stands for on its best days, and our fellow countrymen. I was so moved I even rooted for the Yankees during the November Series (and I am a baseball purist, as you know, and that is a monumental step).


But that feeling of fellowship and brotherhood drifted away from us. We let the worst parts of our collective psyche take over. We became a country filled with infighting. We became a country that trashed our 1st amendment protections, especially when it came to Muslim Americans. We became a country that was horrified to see Americans die in the destruction of iconic building, but who could make a top priority repealing a law that might keep fellow Americans dying due to lack of or inadequate healthcare. We became a country who trusted no one, and even questioned the legitimacy of birth of the person in the highest office in the land. We became a country that applauds at the mere mention of executions and that holds parties at the news of people’s deaths. We became a country that invades other countries for little or no reason, a renewed imperialism. We became a country that no longer cared about our hopes to be the beacon on a hill for all to emulate. We became a country that no longer cared about justice, right and wrong, and our fellow man, let alone our fellow citizens. I can’t help but look at the 3,000 names printed with love on the signposts and think that they would turn over in their graves, if they had graves and knew this was their legacy: that we the living, have let them down, and allowed their deaths be in vain.


So that’s the feeling I get from spending time at Bob Hart’s 9-11 Memorial Trail. They are holding a Commeration there at 6:30pm today and I encourage you to visit then, or at another time, when you can. Look at the names and look for the strength to be a better person and American. I know that this place challenged me to be just that.


There is a video you can watch here Watch.

Trail Essentials

Approximate Time: 1 hour

Approximate Distance: .2 miles

Features: Art Installation, Tribute to 9-11 dead, Folk art

Overall Rating: B

Scenic Quality: A

Athleticism: D

Solitude: A

Value: A

Parking: Free, but only for three cars 

Hours of Operation:  Doesn't close, but be respectful of property owners and neighbors

Facilities: None 

Maps: Not needed

County: Clarke

Stone Mountain Loop Trail

Best Hike I waited too long to write about. Tweet Map

From Stone Mountain Cherokee Trail

When I go hiking, more often than not, I am very goal orientated. I want to climb this mountain, or see this waterfall, or whatever. I realize that there are some truly great hiking trails that don’t have some sort of ultimate goal. Places where hiking is wonderful on its own terms: you get outside into nature, you stretch your legs, and get your heart pumping. The strange thing about these types of trails is that I don’t rush back and feel compelled to write about them right away. This particular trail I hiked for the first time about 5 years ago, and probably walked along its paths better than two dozen times. And I have written extensively about it surrounding home: Stone Mountain Park, but until today I have never told the story of the fantastic nearby walking trail: Cherokee Trail.

This trail has several names. Officially, it is known as the Cherokee Trail on the maps you get at the gate. But it’s often called the Stone Mountain Loop Trail or the Stone Mountain National Recreation Trail. Any way you slice it, it is one of the finest trails in the Atlanta Area. Boys Scouts can even earn a merit badge for completing it. If you search the internet, you will see it listed sometimes as 5 miles, sometimes as 5.5 miles, and sometimes as 6 miles. To clear this up, my belief is that the true white blazed Cherokee Trail is 5 miles long. However, many folks walk a longer loop, which keeps the trail easy avoiding any part of the mountain, but lengthens the stroll to 6 miles. If you enter via the free parking at the Stone Mountain Visitor Center you can start the trail on the connecting trail in question. However, my personal recommendation on how to do the trail is the 5.5 mile way.

Start at the Stone Mountain Walk up trail and walk up the mountain as if you are heading to the top. After walking about ¼ mile, keep your eyes open for two stone markers noting the Cherokee Trail. You can turn right or left here, I prefer right taking the trail in a counterclockwise direction. First you will get some very different views of the mountain as you descend: Rocky, Desolate, and Beautiful. There’s a sign here saying that this might be dangerous when wet and I assure you this is true. Follow the white blaze into the woods below. The bulk of the trail except for the mountain part gives pretty good tree cover making this walk quite doable even in the hottest months. You will meet up with the connecting trail shortly. Those who do 6 mile version tend to do it for those reasons: keeping the difficulty down and staying out of the sun.

The first marker you encounter is known as the old homestead, which is really simply the remains of an old chimney. You will continue out of the forest, across the road by the playground. At the end of the playground there is a nice little pond to look at. You then continue to the lake. The lakeside walk gives some very nice views of the mountain as well as Lake Venable itself. After crossing a bridge, your time with the lake will be over, and soon you will encounter Stone Mountain Covered Bridge, first at a distance on the water, and then at a place where it can be crossed. I normally cross the bridge knowing full well that it’s off the trail. Being just shy of the halfway point around, it makes a good quick break spot.

Back on the Trail, the next feature is the Old Grist Mill, which was moved here from the Elijay area back in the 60’s. If you like the sound of moving water, this part of the trail provides it. You follow the granite runway along a pretty creek. You cross street again and head toward the attractions areas. In this part of the woods, there’s some kind of Garden planted out there complete with a dedication marker, but I have never seen anything planted there. You then will come out of the woods at the main field where the grand Confederate Memorial sculpture can be seen in close proximity. You will then continue back into the woods for the final leg, which includes the walk back up the mountain to the point where it intercepts the walk up trail This part is pretty, serene, and difficult; but worth the effort to get your merit badge.

This is my preferred walking route as you get to nice uphill climbs at the beginning and the very end to really get your heart pumping. Some might add hiking to the top, which would add 40 minutes, 2 miles, and significant difficulty to your sojourn. If combine the two trails, you might just have the very best hike in the Greater Atlanta Area. The only drawback is the $10 parking fee. It has all the other key factors I look for: good exercise, pleasant surroundings to view, moments of tranquility, a sense of accomplishment, and only 30 minutes from downtown Atlanta.



Trail Essentials
Approximate Time: 2-2½ hours
Approximate Distance: 5.5 miles
Trail Surface: Stone, Compact Soil
Features: Mountain View, Lakeside Walk, Ruins, Mill, Covered Bridge, Huge Bas Relief

Overall Rating: A

Scenic Quality: A
Athleticism: A
Solitude: A
Value: A
Parking: $10
Hours of Operation: The Trail doesn’t really close
Facilities: At Attractions area, at Walk Up Trail
Maps: Hiking Map on this Page
County: DeKalb

Moore's Ford Lynching (part I)

Part I (Background)

From Moore's Ford Lynching

65 years ago, as of the publishing of this post, a terrible event occurred in the vicinity of the place where we all live. When you hear of tragic events like this, a part of your mind thinks, maybe wishes, that it is only a thing of the past to be forgotten like the Horse & Buggy or the 8-track tape. But there is a danger in forgetting too much history, especially the parts that make us nervous or queasy. My attempt to alleviate the perils of history forgotten will stand with the GABEO, and there presentation of the events surround the last mass lynching in the United States, or what is most commonly referred to as the Moore’s Ford Lynching.

The Dark event occurred on July 26, 1946 (Time Article). Not so long ago that there aren’t people still alive who remember the event. Four black people, George & Mae Murray Dorsey and Roger & Dorothy Malcom, were taken from a car at the bridge across the Appalachee River at the Walton-Oconee County Line, where they were repeatedly shot, some reports say 60+ shots were fired, ending their young lives. There is much more to the story: It came during a period when the idea of lynching a black person was something society knew was a practice, especially in the South. It came at a time prior to the rise of Civil Rights leaders such a Martin Luther King, and any real semblance of equal citizenship for black Americans. This was the way things were done in that period of American History, as ugly as it may be, we do ourselves great harm if we look away.

The Georgia Association of Black Elected Officials (or GABEO) feels the same way. And for the past several years they have held a commemorationof the event of that dark July night. This year is was this past Saturday, July 23rd. The first purpose is to keep this unsolved case from seeping out of our collective memories. The second purpose is that it stands to reason that somebody who lives in the area may have information that could bring the perpetrators of the murder to justice.

The Day began with a rally at the First African Baptist Church of Monroe at Noon. I can attest by my present that all were welcome to attend this event. It gave the organizers about two hours to get everyone together to make the trip around Monroe. During this time, Black elected leaders, community leaders, and religious leaders spoke to edify and amplify the attendees. There was also a fair amount of music and an introduction of the actors.

The first scene was done at the church. The players were Barnette Hester, Roger Malcom and Dorothy Malcom. Apparently, Barnette had made some disparaging comments about the propriety of Dorothy Malcom, and Roger aimed to do something about it. Roger confronted Barnette and a scuffle ensued. In the melee Roger stabbed Barnette and then fled. The historical versions of this event say that Barnette was armed with a pitchfork, and that it may have been sexual advances or even actions toward Dorothy that raised Roger’s ire. Any way you slice it, it was not a good time in history for a black man to stab a white man. Roger ended up caught and imprisoned for 11 days. In the past this part of the reenactment was held in front of Barnette Hester’s house at 2932 Hester Town Road. But due to logistics, and some trepidation, they decided to do this part at the church.

Click here to continue to PART TWO

Moore's Ford Lynching (Part II)

Part II – The Graves and Sites

From Moore's Ford Lynching

There then was a break from the action. They had made a decision to visit the graves of the victims and they were buried in three separate locations. The first stop was the Mount Perry Missionary Baptist Church in Appalachee, Morgan County. Here the bodies of George and Dorothy (Malcom) Dorsey were interred side by side. Most of the graves at the cemetery were simple wooden crosses, and when the Dorseys were buried they had the same. The Moore’s Ford Committee placed granite markers on all the lynching’s victims some years back. In front of George’s grave, there was a plaque recording his military service record, including the three medals he earned in service for our country during WWII. A prayer was said over the grave and we moved on to cemetery #2: Chestnut Grove Baptist Church in Rutlege, Morgan County, where Roger Malcomwas buried. Roger’s grave looked pretty much the same as the other, an elegant granite slab replacing the modest original marker. After the benediction here, we moved to another headstone, that of Lynn McKinley Jackson who died on August 8, 1982. Lynn was found hanging from a tree in Walton County, and even though most might think it suspicious, the local authorities ruled it a suicide. According to the GABEO leaders, they believe he was lynched as a result of his being involved in interracial relationships. After a prayer over Mr. Jackson’s grave, we moved on to the final gravesite.

The entire motorcade journey would wind up taking us better than 60 miles in total. The distances between the gravesites were the most substantial being 15 miles or better. The path to Mae Murray Dorsey final resting place took us through Hestertown. Hestertown, if you recall, was where Barnette Hester’s farm was and where the first scene was supposed to take place. Along the road, there were several old houses and barns, forming what might be almost a stereotypical idea of what rural country life in Georgia is like. The strange thing was the number of folk sitting on their front porches watching us drive slowly down there road. Many of them waved at me. This would normally be an endearing portrait of Southern warmth, if the fact was not known that there was little doubt someone from there either knew something, or knew someone who knew something about the unsolved murders. Were they greeting us or letting us know they had their collective eyes on us. It was an eerie experience.

Mae Murray Dorsey was buried at the now defunct Zion Hill Cemetery at 224 Alcovy Street in Monroe, Georgia. If you go to this site, you will notice a small office park with numerous small businesses. We parked there and in a field adjacent to the parking lot there were a fair number of graves marked with simply wooden crosses. We made our way down to the granite marker commemorating Mrs. Dorsey’s death. The marker has been place in the field apparently next to the grave of a member of Mae’s family because the actually grave is somewhere under the paved parking lot. A sad story true, but no more than the entire situation.

We then made our way to the Monroe Courthouse Annex IV at 203 Milledge Avenue in Downtown Monroe. In 1946, this building served as the jail where Roger Malcom was kept for the stabbing of Barnette Hester. At this site there were two reenactments. The first was of Eugene Talmadge’s stump speech taken from notes and recordings of the day. Mr. Talmadge had arrived in Monroe, two day s after the Hester stabbing. In this speech, he makes several references to purifying the Democratic Primary saying that black can vote in this election, but if elected he’ll make sure blacks won’t be voting in the next. The implication is that a racially inflammatory speech might have riled the mob into action against Roger Malcom. Some sources imply there was a direct deal between Talmadge and the Klan that their version of Justice would be permitted. The second reenactment centers around a man named Loy Harrision. Mr. Harrison had been George and Roger’s employer and apparently Mae and Dorothy were able to convince him to put up the $600 to get Roger out of Jail. Loy, pulled up in his car, along with George and the two women, and bailed Roger out. For the moment, the four were happy and filled with a spirit of reunion. They would work off their debt to Mr. Harrison and life might just return to normal.

But that brings us to the final reenactment, we drove down to Moore’s Ford Bridge. On the way, we saw the historical marker at the corner of Highway 78 & Locklin Road. Continuing down Locklin, 2.4 miles later we were at the bridge. The exact location is Mt Carmel Church Road, where the Appalachee river divides Walton and Oconee Counties. We had to walk about a half mile down to the bridge. It is now a concrete modern bridge, but at the time of the lynching it was a simple wooden structure. There is a signpost for Moore’s Ford Road, but there really is nothing there but a dirt path. At this place, the final confrontation was dramatized. For some unknown reason, Mr. Harrison decided to drive this circuitous route how with his four black travelling companion. We piece together the event of the day based on Loy’s testimony. First, armed Klansmen stop the car at the bridge, they pull the George and Roger out kicking and screaming. Roger’s crime was known to all, but apparently George had become to uppity after the coming back from the war or possible he was too friendly with white women. Mae recognized one on the armed men, and then the women had to be dispatched because they could have no witness. The four were tied together with a rope and shot over sixty times to make sure they were dead. They were then left in the field to rot. Hours later, funeral director Dan Young came to pick up the bodies for final preparation. Prayers were said and songs were sung concluding the reenactment.

Click here to continue to PART THREE

Moore's Ford Lynching (Part III)

Part Three – Conclusion

From Moore's Ford Lynching

In the interest of fairness I want to address a few issues that cause some turmoil around these reenactments.  The first is the strange call for accuracy.  A number of people thing that the reenactment is inaccurate, but the presenters know full well that there is not a valid account of the murders.  If there were then the perpetrators would have at least been tried.  If you rail about inaccuracy then you probably know something and should assist the authorities to finding justice.  Aside from the actual shooting, they point to the story of Dorothy Malcom’s pregnancy  as being apocryphal.  Laura Wexler, who wrote the definitive book on the subject, Fire in a Canebrake, as well as her family members disagree with this stance.  The presenter of the reenactment claims that he was told of the pregnancy by the funeral director Dan Young.  This idea is even recorded, using the word “reportedly” on the historical marker.  Those who believe the story even gave the child a name a few years ago, fittingly, it was “Justice Malcom.”  To those who object to this story, I say who really cares if she was pregnant or not?  Does it make the crime of murdering four people better?  As if somehow, a person might think I can live with you accusing me of murder, but don’t you dare label me an abortionist.  Albeit if it were true, it would add a fifth lost soul to the mix.  If the idea gets you riled, I think that’s the point.  They want you to come forward and set the record straight.  If I were making stuff up, I would do a lot more than just have the one girl pregnant.  I might go with the one report that had the Klansmen having sex with children, animals, and other men in a bloodlust frenzy.   You can’t tell me it didn’t happen, unless you know something and should come forward for the sake of justice.

The second thing to note is that this is not the last lynching in history.  We already talked about Lynn McKinley Jackson’ s story at Roger Malcom’s gravesite.  I was also told the story of Fredrick Jermaine Carter, who appears to have been lynched way back in December of 2010.  Sure, this wasn’t Georgia, but rather Mississippi, and it was ruled a suicide, but it has all the earmarks of good old fashioned mob justice.  These stories make us all understand the importance of remembrance.  We need to be vigilant against the atrocities that mankind is capable of so that we can minimize, stop, or prevent the darkest side on the human soul from gaining control.  I would be nice to think this American problem of lynching has been solved, but you would be kidding yourself. 

The final thing is probably the most scary to me, personally.  I’ll start by addressing the most frequently asked question: “If Dorothy, Mae, Roger and George were shot, why is it called a lynching?”  A lynching can mean the hanging of a human by rope from a tree and that may be the most common form of these murders, but in a more general sense it means putting someone to death without legal means, most often by  a mob.  That was the case in the Moore’s Ford murders.  The thing that scares me is the lynch mob mentality I see around us every day.  And it’s more than a black and white problem.  We sit a mere month out of this big Casey Anthony trial in Florida, and although acquitted, I’ve heard more than one person say she should be killed.  It’s a running meme on the internet to get Dexter and Casey introduced.  The comedians are joking about her guilt without regard to the justice system.  But a day like last Saturday helps me realize that the very same passions and rage which stopped the car at the Moore’s Ford Bridge, which led to the shooting death of four black people, are the same passions we kindle today.  We must learn to not just love justice, but to respect it.  To understand that the trial by jury is the seed from which all democracy and freedoms grew, planted in the Magna Charta centuries past.  If we can’t respect Justice in our community, then we no longer have a community and have digressed to the worst possible outcome of democracy: Mob Rule. 

Stumphouse Tunnel

Stay Cool like aged Cheese Map

From Stumphouse Tunnel

Well, it’s hot. The extreme heat (just like the extreme cold) has a tendency to diminish our desire to head outside for a good time. The Urban Baboon is no exception. Most people head to the water. But what if, like my most frequent travelling companion, you simply don’t know how to swim? It seems odd, but the refreshing cool liquid brings fear to some. Well, I know a neat little place just over two hours from Atlanta that can provide a refreshing alternative. I know it’s in South Carolina, but it’s a great place to visit. This little secret is known as Stumphouse Tunnel Park outside Walhalla, SC.

Prior to the Civil War, the State of South Carolina tried to Build a Tunnel through the Oconee County mountains, so that trains could go from Charleston, SC to Cincinnati, OH. That meant clearing a path through Stumphouse Mountain, with a tunnel stretching longer than 1 mile. After spending more than $1 million on the project, the State of South Carolina stopped the project, leaving a 4,363 foot train sized cave in the mountain’s side, some 1500 feet short of the needed goal. The beauty of the tunnel is that inside it stays a fairly constant temperature of about 50 degrees. The conditions are so naturally mild that the University of Clemson used to age Bleu Cheese in there, but have since moved to better controllable simulated environments closer to campus.

It is the centerpiece of the park, but there’s also a pretty magnificent waterfall there call Issaqueena Falls, purported named for an Indian woman who hurled herself from its rocks. And there’s a Nice Hiking Trail along the mountain running along the proposed historical railroad line, going a bit over two miles one way. The path rises and falls along the side of the mountain. A ¼ mile up, there is what is known as the Middle Tunnel, which can be entered on foot, but beware of wildlife. 1¾ mile further, there’s the remains of Saddle Tunnel, which is mostly covered in water. Then you doubleback. The park is also very near Yellow Branch Falls, maybe ½ mile down the road.

The entry to the park is free, so the only drawback is that it is open only from 10am to 5pm. Admittedly, because of this time constraint, we never made it to the third tunnel. And as we drove out at 4:55 pm, we noticed two cars entering the park. Maybe the locals know something I don’t. Maybe they were just there to pickup up people. I don’t know.

So if you are looking for a place to go for the day, down want to travel to far, and are looking to beat the heat, South Carolina’s Stumphouse Tunnel Park might just be the ticket. You get a little overheated, just spend 20 minutes in the tunnel and cool off. It is important to note that none of these tunnels are lit, so a flashlight, although normally useful, is mandatory on this expedition.


Trail Essentials
Approximate Time: 1-2 hours
Approximate Distance: 2.5 miles
Features: Mountain View, Tunnels, Ruins, Waterfall

Overall Rating: B+

Scenic Quality: A+
Athleticism: B
Solitude: B-
Value: A
Parking: Free
Hours of Operation: 10am – 5pm
Facilities: Uncertain (I don't remember any, but let me know, I will update)
Maps: Map, at bottom right of page
County: Oconee County, SC

Tunnel Hill

I see the light at the end of the Tunnel Map

From Tunnel Hill

I got lucky this weekend past. I often put things on my list of possible stops along my travels and they are closed and I feel like a moron. But not so this past weekend, I took a two mile detour off 85 to visit a historic place on a day they are usually closed and I stumbled upon their ultimate celebration. I got this lucky in a cool little town a little under two hours Northwest of Atlanta on my way to Chattanooga. The town in question is the city of Tunnel Hill, Georgia and the sight I wished to encounter was their Great Tunnel


The tunnel runs 1477 feet through the Chetoogeta Mountain. It was completed in 1850 and served as the first rail tunnel through the Appalachian mountains and served to connect Augusta and the new town of Atlanta to the Tennessee Valley and up the Northern Coast. It was dedication in October of 1949 and the first train passed through on May 9, 1850. Prior to that railcars were literally portaged over the mountain. The tunnel over time became functionally small so a new tunnel was built a few hundred feet North of the original in 1928 and this one fell into disuse. The tracks were stripped out of it some years later and it was opened to the public in the year 2000.


We arrived on one of the few Sundays the Tunnel Hill Heritage Center was open. They were doing their annual Reenactment of the Battle of Tunnel Hill. We arrived near the end but the ordnance fire was loud and set a beautiful aural tone. There were all sorts of folks in period attire with a nice little market and some of the best handcrafted birch beer I ever drank. We crossed a small covered bridge on foot and made our way to the tunnel. You can now walk the 1500 feet through the old tunnel to the other side. It is a marvel of pre-civil war engineering and makes for cool shade on a hot Georgia day. It is reasonably well lit, but we sort of wished we had brought flashlights. On the other side of the tunnel there was a tremendous patch of kudzu in bloom, with a gorgeous sweet smell. You also get to tour the small railroad museum and walk very near the Clisby Austin House, a fine antebellum building.


Of keen interest here is the history. First there’s the railroad and the tunnel. Secondly, there’s the Civil War heritage. The Clisby Austin home served to house General Hood of the grey and General Sherman of the blue at different times. One of the quirkier landmarks I’ve seen is here and is the gravesite of General Hood’s Leg, which was blown off in battle. The Battle of Tunnel Hill is said to be the first skirmish of the Atlanta Campaign and the campaign was designed in the Clisby Austin home. The tunnel was also one of the targets of destruction by Andrews Raiders during what has become known as the Great Locomotive Chase, but their pursuers were too close by the time they passed through this site. Having all the confederate and union soldiers walking around really brought this history home.


The tour normally costs $5 (hours and admission). And you get to see all the sites mentioned. On the day we went, it was pretty crowded being the big reenactment day and all, but I imagine on normal days it could be quite tranquil and serene. And with its location so close to the 85 corridor, I mark Tunnel Hill as one of the best little roadside attractions I’ve encountered in Georgia, period.


Trail Essentials
Approximate Time: 1 hour
Approximate Distance: 1 mile
Features: Tunnel, Historic Building, Gravesite, Civil War history

Overall Rating: B

Scenic Quality: A
Athleticism: C
Solitude: C+
Value: A-
Parking: Free
Hours of Operation: Monday through Saturday 9am-5pm
Facilities: At Railroad Museum
Maps: None needed
County: Whitfield

Oconee Indian Mounds

They can’t all be winners, kid Map

From Oconee Indian Mounds

Now I posted a while back about the really cool ruins at Scull Shoals. In that post, I mentioned that one book I read said there were Indian Mounds not too far from there, but I didn’t go. I went back last year with the sole purpose of finding those mounds and I did. People have asked me how every place I go I seem so excited about. The answer to that question is that if I go somewhere and its underwhelming, I tend to shelve the story. But in response to an email, I bring you the story of the Oconee Indian Mounds Trail (here or here)



These photos were taken in April of 2009, after I went with a different friend and his dog to see Skull Shoals. The ruins there were just as nice the second and third times. It was early enough in the day and my companion was game so I sought out this trail a short distance away. To get there, take the road that was the last chance to turn right headed to Scull Shoals, drive a short distance, take the next left, and go to the end. Trust me it’s not far, I met a man who ran between the two sites as exercise.


The trail itself is only one mile long and flat. Just like anything else in the Oconee floodplain, it has a good chance to be muddy, swampy, and murky, as was the case on our jaunt. When you get to the end you will see signs denoting the historical significance of the area and not to disturb the artifacts. The mounds themselves are difficult to see being covered by trees and at the edge of a pretty swampy area. If you were expecting a mound site akin to Ocmulgee or Etowah, that won’t be the case. There is no doubt of its archeological importance, being two good size Lamar Indian Mounds, but its visual significance is minimal. The picture above is one of the mounds.  But that’s ok, not everything has to be a monumental attraction. The best part of the trip was that a total stranger we met on the trail offered us a beer, I told him I would write about him but I didn’t get around to it until now. I think his name was Jim, and I am sure he worked in some nearby factory in the HR department, so here’s my public thanks (He said he read my site—email me if your him and describe the dog so I will know its you).  It was the second time in two weeks that had happened.


So if you are looking for a tidy little add-on to your Scull Shoals day, this place works. Or if you are the type who wants to soak in every piece of Indian Heritage you can find, you should put the Oconee Indian Mounds Trail on your list. And if you are an actual archeologist, I bet this is stupendous. But if you are looking for great photos, Scull Shoals will probably dwarf this site in your mind.


Trail Essentials
Approximate Time: 30-45 minutes
Approximate Distance: 1 mile
Features: Indian Mounds
Overall Rating: B-

Scenic Quality: C+
Athleticism: C-
Solitude: A-
Value: B
Parking: Free
Hours of Operation: Daylight hours
Facilities: None
Maps: None
County: Greene County

Andersonville,Civil War Village

Tribute to War Crimes Map

From Andersonville

(Part III of a three part serious on my trip to Andersonville, Part I here, Part II here)

After your stop at the Andersonville National Cemetery, there is one last place one feels compelled to see before departing the area. Across from the gate and the busy highway, stands the gate to the city of Andersonville. A quiet and infamous town, but home to something you won’t find anywhere else. It was here that the chief caretakers of the nefarious prison lived, most notable among them was the Commanding Officer Capt. Henry Wirz.



As you drive into the city, you can’t miss the one-of-a-kind item, I mentioned. It is a stone obelisk rising about 20 feet in the air planted smack dab in the middle of the road in the center of town. And this monument is erected in honor of Captain Wirz, the fabled Demon of Andersonville. Now there are Confederate Monuments scattered all throughout this state and country. And as a real part of our history, I don’t begrudge this fact, provided it is done respectfully and within context. But Captain Wirz was tried, convicted, and hanged for War Crimes. So this memorial is the only monument erected to honor a war criminal placed on American Soil. Some list Captain Wirz as the only man convicted of War Crimes during the Civil War, but there is also historical record of a Tennessee irregular combatant being executed, Champ Ferguson, though his status as a War Criminal is debatable. Another perplexing note, speaking to my feelings about visiting the POW museum, is that Wikipedia’s List of American War Criminals has only 10 entries: one from the 19th century, Henry Wirz; one from the 20th Century, William Calley, architect of the My Lai Massacre (1968); and the other eight entries are from the current century which stands at writing a mere 10 years old.



In addition to the monument, there are the offices of Captain Wirz on the corner. There’s a railroad crossing and a few railcars. There is a diorama exhibit of the prison, but as we arrived late in the day the whole place was closed. It looked pretty much like other small towns in Georgia, but the vacant nature and the area’s history gave it a decidedly eerie feel. Now I don’t buy into any paranormal activity whatsoever, but I can understand why the gullible and so inclined have repeated many Ghost Stories of Andersonville. On the positive side, there is a historical marker to the good Father Peter Whelan who ministered to the prisoners and prison keepers of Andersonville, serving God as if He was neither Blue nor Gray. If you are looking for a hero in this story, Father Whelan may be your best bet.

From Andersonville

Behind the row of buildings on the left side, there is an interesting little city park. A small creek runs through it and they have gathered a number of old wooden shacks to make it quite photogenic. One of the shacks is a jail with a prisoner inside it. There is a kind of cheesy replica mill complete with Christmas lights. But the most fascinating part of the park is a cage containing two beautiful peacocks (well one beautiful peacock and one less glamorous peahen). As they are native to India (and I believe they are of the blue Indian variety), I have never seen any peafowl outside of a zoo or habitat community. To find these striking creatures in the small town of Andersonville’s city park was a perfect, albeit completely out of place, cherry on the top of a grand excursion.



In summary, the prison recalls an awful time in our history. The POW Museum makes us consider our collective humanity. The Prison site makes us shudder at the prospect of how low man can sink. The Cemetery makes us reflect on those who carried our banner. And the city makes us question our views of the past. Our jaunt to Andersonville was something that moved me deeply. I would offer that the historical impact of this area is second only to the Martin Luther King Historic Sites and our Civil Rights Legacy. Now, I’m looking forward to a better meaning of the word, “Civil.”